London Fashion Week brings together some of the industry’s most inventive talent with daring design codes. The displays were spread over some of the city’s most prominent venues, including Somerset House, the Strand, and Burberry’s unexpected demonstration at London Highbury Fields. A week that celebrates new talent, the particular originality of rising designers continued to characterize the calendar. The fusion of British classicism and cutting-edge craft exemplifies London designers as experimental and eclectic. – London Fashion
Molly Goddard
Goddard’s fascination with historical artifacts inspired her to investigate and disclose the inner constructions of vintage bedding and undergarments for her SS24 collection. The deconstructed pieces displayed highly technical fabric skills, generating exaggerated silhouettes in nuanced textures by disclosing seams, zips, binding, and boning. The inside-out technique resulted in an explosion of frills beneath cotton canvas outer layers, and dresses with exposed seam stitch detailing that was purposely left undone. Blanket-style satin trimmed cardigans inspired by Victorian bedding were replicated in bags made to simulate pillows and were rendered in old dusty lemon and lavender tones.
Eudon Choi
Eudon Choi exhibited loose-cut clothing in flowing materials inspired by French 19th-century impressionist painter Berthe Morisot’s flowing style and muted palette. Clean-cut tailoring, tailored exquisite suits, and airy dresses provided easy versatility in cool tones. Morisot’s women were dressed in soft silks and opaque textiles that reflected their lightness and freedom. The coats, fashioned of lightweight wool, emphasized the deceptively easygoing collection’s skilled craftsmanship. The exhibition also included the launch of Louis Quatorze’s fourth bag collaboration.
Emilia Wickstead
Emilia Wickstead praised the liberated silhouette of 1920s and 1930s beachwear, inspired by the creatively free men and women vacationing on the French Riviera. The color was the most striking feature of the collection, with the vivid and punchy palette paying homage to under-appreciated Cubist female artists. Eveningwear column gowns and slinky sailor suits were woven together with boxy shirts and shorts ensembles. Beading elements for dresses, tops, and miniskirts reflected the retro vibe. The end result was a wardrobe for the modern woman, free and elegant yet grounded in day-to-day reality.
